Sweet as Sin

February 15, 2016

Candy historian Benjamin chronicles sweets and their influence on America's cultural experience. She begins by tracing the backstory of sugar production and its connections to slavery and the abolitionist movement. Many varieties of chocolate, penny candy, and gum are also explored as Benjamin discusses how the manufacturing of these products was affected by slavery in the 19th century and Prohibition in the 20th century. Other types of treats (e.g., salt water taffy, Peeps, licorice, and brittle) are given only cursory and often abrupt treatment. The author intersperses historical aspects with personal anecdotes as well as interviews with confection inventors, manufacturers, and aficionados throughout. Regrettably, owing to the assortment of candy covered, the narrative at times feels disjointed as it jumps from one history to another. Short profiles of the major players in the industry including Milton Hershey, Forrest Mars, and William Wrigley Jr., also appear. VERDICT Related in a light, colloquial tone, as if the author is discussing these matters with a close friend, this charming but ultimately scattered book will only narrowly appeal to those interested in the history and business of candy.--Rebekah Kati, Durham, NC

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